My name is Vicki and I’m a Londonaholic. It started as a young girl with our annual family trip in my Dad’s burgundy Rover but as I’ve gotten older, it’s become far more severe. Now, 3, 4 even 5 visits a year aren’t enough; just when I think I’ve had my fill, the urge is there again and before I know it, I’m on the Virgin Rail website scoring us a cheap deal for a couple of front facing seats. I love the way I feel when I’m there, I adore escaping among the tall buildings, as I breathe in the buzz of the city. Within this frantic habitat, I find peace.
So it was no surprise when our first visit of the year was within its first week. I’d had my eye on the newest Hawksmoor venture, Foxlow for a while and after veteran food critic Richard Vines stamped it boldly with his seal of approval, I booked us in for lunch.
What did the fox say?
Any restaurant in which I can have ribs as a main and a starter, can never fail in my eyes (exception = Frankie & Benny’s) so I’m just going to get straight to the point and admit that I adored Foxlow.
The cocktails I enjoyed on the day arrived surprisingly quickly yet their speed did not detract from their quality, my favourite being the sharp and eye squinty Pickle Buck, concocted from rye, ginger ale and pickle juice; a flavour sensation that could awaken even the deadest of taste buds and as a result, I am almost certain could be a cure for the zombie virus.
Rockefeller Fizz (£5)
Meat is treated lovingly. I know this as we were seated by the open kitchen – big slabs were often removed during our visit and basted with a tender hand and brush leading to fall apart, juicy mouthfuls of pure brawny heaven. So very tender, like consuming the best protein shakes ever.
Five Pepper Squid (£7)
Iberico Pork Rib (£8.50)
Eight Hour Bacon Rib with Maple & Chilli (£16)
Ten Hour Beef Shortrib with Kimchi (£16)
Sides have always been a strength at any Hawksmoor gaff and Foxlow continue this trend. The sausage stuffed onion was incredibly good – sat in a pot of onion and sausage gravy which we were informed was so tasty because of the lashings of cream it contained. This could stand as a main dish in its own right.
Sausage-Stuffed Onion (£3.50)
Broccoli with Chilli & Anchovy (£4.50)
Fries with Bacon Salt (£3.50)
I couldn’t resist the Peanutella & sweet toast (£5.50) and was glad I didn’t - the perfect mix of sweet and savoury and a great portion size to share for two people with very fatigued bellies.
Service was particularly good. Our handsome dreadlocked waiter excused our food scattered table by proclaiming ‘a messy table means you enjoyed your meal’ in soft hushed tones which made me fall in love with him a little bit. (Hey, handsome dreadlocked waiter, call me?)
James & The Giant Peach Tea (£7)
With sides it is a bit on the pricey side, but for the sheer amount of flavour they manage to pack into one meal, I feel it’s worth it.
Do you have a friend who has decimated their taste buds through smoking? Has a loved one recently turned into a zombie and you’re looking for a cure? Do you wish to meet a handsome dreadlocked waiter who doesn’t mind if you have poor table manners*? Well, I implore you to get down to Foxlow as it may just change your life.
*Hands off, he’s mine.